1.Remove
the existing flywheel (left hand thread). Fit the new stator plate centrally and
ensure the cable is clamped & clear of snagging. Do not
tighten the stator plate at this stage. |
7.
Mark off the required BTDC (before top dead centre) settings to
the left of TDC. Here for a TS1 I've marked off 16 1/2, 17, 18
& 19 degrees BTDC, plus someone had already marked off 15! I
run my TS1 at 16 1/2 to 17 degrees BTDC. A normal standard
LI is 23 degrees, whilst a GP is 21 degrees BTDC. |
2.Using fine grade steel wool or emery
paper remove the varnish covering the flywheel magnets.
|
8.
With the flywheel fitted the arrow on this should be lined up with the
relevant degree mark made on the flywheel housing. |
3.Now
fit
the flywheel. There should be an arrow on this & a
corresponding mark on the engine casing around 12 O' clock.
When the engine was originally setup this should have been top
dead centre (TDC) |
9.
Looking through the lower flywheel window located at 5 O'clock you
will find a white line on the stator plate pickup & two lines on
the flywheel window. These need to line up exactly. In this picture the stator plate needs to be moved clockwise. |
4.TDC
now needs to be checked & this is just one way to do
it. Remove the cylinder head & turn the flywheel until the
piston reaches it's crest. Back off slightly, then back again until
the piston is at its highest point - TDC. |
10.
Remove the flywheel again, loosen the stator plate & move
it clockwise (or counter clockwise as required) Then tighten the 3
bolts holding the stator plate, refit the flywheel, followed by the washer & tighten the
bolt. |
5.This
shows the piston at it's highest point or TDC.
Notice the clearance
between the piston and the top of the cylinder. This is important, more so for a tuned engine i.e. for a TS1 it should be between 1-1.1mm.
|
11.
With the flywheel arrow on the relevant flywheel housing BTDC mark, the
stator plate white pickup line & the lines on the
flywheel windows should line up perfectly. Now tighten the
flywheel nut using a torque wrench & the correct flywheel
holding tool (not a screwdriver jammed in the fins!!) to 50
lbs/ft. |
6.
Remove the flywheel & fit a timing wheel to the crank. Secure
this with the flywheel nut & washer.
If you don't have a
timing wheel click
here, print it and mount to some thick cardboard. |
12.
Fit the cylinder head & a gasket if required. Tighten down the
cylinder head to
18lbs/ft for a TS1 or 23 lbs/ft for any other Lambretta series
III.
Now go here to wire it
up!
|
If you
find your lights go dim when you brake then you may need to check
& rewire your stator plate. Here's a simple diagram
to improve the lighting. |