Lambretta long range fuel tank installation

The toolbox & standard petrol tank (& air filter box if fitted) are already removed from the frame. You'll definitely need a hammer or a rubber mallet. Click on thumbnails for larger images.
NOTE: Other Converted dual tanks are available which are effectively 2 tanks welded together. Most of these come from Asia, so when ordering ensure your let the person your buying them from what type of manifold and carb you have fitted i.e. std. TS1 manifold, MB (shorter style), Imola etc.
Pros  Cons 
This steel tank is well designed & strongly constructed. A lot of work is involved in their fabrication.    Needs cleaning internally, lining with a tank repair kit (30) & painting.
The price of 120 + 10 P&P was a good deal, considering above (2000 price) One of the hardest things I've ever had to fit to a Lambretta. A LOT of hassle with no instructions.

No fitting kit (2 x M8 x 10 + 2 x M8x5 stainless bolts required + plus rubber washers). Time to install - took me at least 4 hours!


1. The tanks come with either side (or both) cut out to accommodate different carb configurations i.e. standard, TS1, Imola etc. The front of the tank is to the right. 7. The fuel tank occupies just about as much space as is possible in the frame. Take care to route the throttle & choke cable (not like shown)
2.  Here you see the cut out for a TS1 carb mounting & the petrol tap. See pic.11 for the improved petrol tap location. 8. Now carefully tighten 2 x M10 stainless steel bolts (not supplied) through the seat bracket into the tank.
3. Here you can see the two holes that the front seat bolts through the frame into. The back bracket needs drilling. Fuel filler cap is shown in this pic. 9. Looking up into the back of the frame shows that the rear tank bracket needs to be bent up towards the rear seat holes. 
4. Standard petrol tank & toolbox removed. Side panel trim is also removed to provide additional clearance when fitting the tank. 10. Through the seat bracket holes is the tank rear bracket. Leave a 20-25mm gap for rubber or nylon washers (not supplied) & mark. Remove tank to drill the required holes.
5. Where the tool box was the flanges to the right of the picture need "flattening" off with a suitable tool (mallet) This stops them interfering with the tank mounting. 11. The petrol tap on these tanks has been moved forward approx 10cm. This leaves more clearance, rather than having the tap & pipe up against the engine mount. 
6. Slide the tank in from the left hand side (when sitting on scooter) The existing frame petrol tank support may also need "flattening" with your trusty rubber mallet. The rear bracket on mine needing some persuading! 12. Now need to paint, clean & line the tank. Also drill a 2mm hole in the filler cap to release back pressure, otherwise the fast flow tap won't shift 1 pint every 50 seconds.