Lambretta clutch removal and replacement

Lambretta 4/5 plate clutch removal & replacement

This assumes you have some mechanical knowledge and experience of working with Lambretta engines. The clutch replacement guide here has the engine removed from the frame, although this can be accomplished with the engine in situ it's a little trickier (not much) Hydraulic Clutch conversion (bottom of page) BEST TS1 CLUTCH: I've found through painful experience that with standard and road/race TS1's the best clutch combo to ensure non-slippage and room for release, without going 6 plate or hydraulic includes the following configurations: For 5 plate clutches use Newfren plates For 4 plate clutches use Surflex or Adige plates* * Jem Booth's opinion on clutch plates was taken from the LCGB message boards and follows: "I personally no longer stock the surflex clutch plates as I have found that they are too thick to use in GP sprockets and spiders. The surflex plates are made from a "man made" material and the Adige items are made from genuine cork plus they are as were fitted by the Innocenti factory." Taffspeed competition springs (ditch the centre spring) GP cyanide hardened clutch spider (~1mm taller than SX) identifiable with small triangle on back. One way to check the difference between this type of spider and others is when you run a file across the back you will not mark an Italian GP item but will easily scratch a softer mild steel spider. GP top pressure plate (3mm versus 2.5mm) GP side casing (part no.22010504) Use Castrol SAE90 gearbox oil Click here for an exploded clutch diagram Time to complete approximately 1.5 hours.
1. Factory tools you'll need for this job include the clutch holding tool (this is not really required)...	9. If they fit between a 12mm spanner then they've definitely had it.
2. ...clutch compressor...	10. Fit new clutch springs, it's false economy to scrimp here. This picture shows 10 springs (5 PX200, 5 Taffspeed strong springs) fitted to a TS1 clutch. These lasted around 4K miles before having to be replaced. I've since upgraded to a 5 plate clutch with only 5 springs.
3. ... nice new Surflex cork clutch plates	11. Next fit the first plate of the clutch mechanism. This is easy with the engine flat on a bench but if its still in the frame it can be a pain as the springs keep fall out. You can either use the clutch compressor to apply pressure to the plate & a screwdriver to locate the springs or alternatively consider getting a clutch spring holding tool from Betta scooters. Click here for details.
4. Soak the clutch plates in gearbox oil for 24 hours before fitting	12. Now its time to fit the clutch plates that were soaked in oil in 4.
5. Fit the clutch compression tool to engine case studs. Use old nuts & an oversize nut to pad out the studs. Shown is a SX/TV/LI type clutch mechanism. the GP version has a different actuating plate.	$Steel\clutch plates$ 13. It's worth checking the steel plates for wear before fitting them. File down any high spots or if they're too bad then replace. Alternate one cork clutch plate with one steel plate.
6. Turn the handle of the tool until it engages with the nipple, keep turning to compress. Once compressed use needle node pliers to remove the circlip (keep this safe somewhere)	$Steel\clutch plates$ 14. As mentioned in 11. You can either use the clutch compressor to apply pressure to the plate & a screwdriver to locate the springs or consider getting the clutch spring holding tool from Betta scooters. Click here for a flyer (big).
7. Once the circlip has been removed turn the handle of the tool to allow the plates to be removed.	15. Now refit the circlip removed in step 6. Ensure the it locates on a post as shown rather than between a gap.
8. Once the clutch plates have been removed then check for wear ...	16. Fit a new chain case gasket, followed by the chain case cover. Finally fill the chain case with 0.7L of Castrol SAE90 gearbox oil.