here for bearing removal instructions
aren't a step by step guide to fitting a TS1 and assume you
already have some mechanical knowledge and experience of working
with Lambretta engines. Despite the heading most of these steps
are fairly generic for bearing replacement. The only difference
with a TS1 is the use of high quality, high load bearings. Don't
be tempted to cut costs here & use Indian bearings, German or
Japanese are the best. For a list of bearings and oil seals see the table
at the bottom of this page or click here.
As the heading mentions this is an
installation so all the necessary disassembly has already been
done inc. dismantling the engine & magneto side.
Remove the existing oil seal from the plate.
and the drive side.
The plate has a small lip to it on the side where the crank cheek
I've fashioned a tool using old bearings & a large nut
& bolt to pull the bearing into the heated housing. Ensure
the bearing goes in straight & doesn't twist.
This picture shows the oil seal loosely fitted. This needs to
be pressed in so that it is flush with the plate face (see 5.) Note
the orientation of the oil seal.
the bearing has been fitted check that there is sufficient recess
for the crank seal plate & the hallite washer to fit
This is the other side of the retaining plate. The oil seal spring
should always face the crank web cheek.
another view of the recess showing the required clearance.
This picture & the next show the oil seal correctly seated into the crank seal plate &
ready to be fitted.
some grease to the hallite washer & fit this into the recess.
Ensure it is flush & covers the drive side bearing edge.
seal plate with oil seal correctly fitted & orientated.
the hallite washer fitted the crank seal plate is now ready to be
are all the required components for drive side re-assembly
inc. a hallite washer & a brand new 6305 decent quality (SKF,
FAG etc.) high load bearing (see
bearings section below)
4 new screws & tighten these as much as possible. You may want
to use an impact screwdriver to get these sufficiently tight &
perhaps some loctite (see below) to hold the screws (ensure the holes are grease
Instead of the crappy screws that most dealers sell, try to use TORX
screws. This style of drive is both strong and neat and a good
choice for this application.
Try not to use loctite as there are many different strengths
available for different aplications. If I have to, I always use the
one that states 'for parts that need to be disassembled' Most
definitely do not use stud lock or bearing retainer!
seriously heat up the drive side bearing housing from both the
magneto side ...
tend to use a centre punch on the edge of the screws instead of
loctite to secure these.
Series III engine bearings & seals
Bearings and seals are a specialist area, if you have
trouble locating any of these listed below I recommend you
check with M.B. Developments as they only use the best.
|| Oil seals
| Flywheel/Magneto side: NU2205 ECP (GP200
crankshaft only) or NU205E (all others) Bearing size: 25x52x15)
NU2205 ECP prefix apparently refers to "Extra Capacity Plastic
Cage" This has an improved inner construction, resulting
in better lubrication and the ability to sustain higher
| Magneto side: 33-52-6 & 25-42-6
| Drive side: 6305
C3 (size: 25x62x17) Use a decent brand i.e. SKF/FAG and always
select "C3" 6305 bearings.
There are various types of bearing
available including 6305-2RS1. The prefix means that the bearing
has removable sides. 2RS denotes rubber shields, whereas 2Z or
ZZ means it has 2 metal shields. In either case remember to
remove one before fitting to allow oil in!
Innocenti engineers found
that when fitting standard 6305 drive side bearings to engines
these would quickly wear out. This was due to expansion caused by
excessive heat from the crankshaft and cylinder cycles. The C3
has a radial internal clearance that is greater than a normal
6305. They are marked either "000" or "C3" and are found to last
a lot longer in high performance engines.
|Drive side: 33-50-6
For the drive side oil seal try to find double lip seals,
these will have an AS suffix. This seal faces the gearbox and helps to prevent oil
seepage into the crankshaft area should the
gearbox become "pressurised" i.e. filler plug breather hole
becomes clogged. The additional lip is used to prevent damage to
the main sealing lip from external contaminants. However they
raise the low pressure aspect of the seal to a seal that can
hold up to 5 bar i.e. good for crankshafts. However twice as
many sealing surfaces means twice as much friction. This "double lip" seal was originally produced
by a company called "Rolf" and are now available from different manufacturers
and in different materials i.e. Corteco (blue in colour) and
Viton (brown). Viton material can be identified by the FPM
prefix and these are very resistant to oil/petrol and cope with
higher temperatures (200°C)
Therefore a Lambretta drive side Viton seal with a double lip
would be FPM33x50x6AS.
| A special stepped Lambretta bearing
is used for the rear wheel
||Rear wheel: 32-45-6
| Gear box end plate bearing: 6004 (all models)
| Front wheel bearing 6201 (all models)
|| Inner needle roller (fits into casing): 16-22-12
| Layshaft endplate inner race: 20*24*10
|| Kick start shaft 22-32-5.5
Small end needle
needle roller: 16*22*12
| Avoid cheap needle roller gearbox bearings as
these will fail! Try to find INA needle roller bearings which are
made in Germany made. These are manufactured from higher grade steel and
are precision ground to finer tolerances than the Indian
equivalents. Unfortunately they're not cheap and retail between
for £5 and £6.50 each. However they will not fail and will
outlast any engine rebuild.
Props to Jem Booth and others for some of the information on this page.